Expert Pool Work, Inc.

providing expert pool work since 1999

(402) 341-8132

Details About Pool Supplies


The categories (chemicals, chemical testers, and maintenance equipment) are in a RED BOLD TYPE. Scroll down to the category of pool supplies that you need:

CHEMICALS:

SANITIZERS​: A sanitizer will destroy and remove bacteria, pathogens, organisms, algae spores, dirt, debris, particles, and other contaminates from pool water as well as oxidize organic matter in the pool water so that the end result is clean, clear, and safe water. Various sanitizers include chlorine, salt (which is converted into chlorine), mineralizers (which are paired with trace amounts of chlorine), and bromine.

3" Chlorine Tablets:
​The 3" chlorine tablets are the most inexpensive and popular type of chlorine tablet. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of 3" Chlorine Tablets in 10-pound buckets (for $43.99), 25-pound buckets (for $79.99) and 50-pound buckets (for $129.99). 

1" Chlorine Tablets:
The 1" chlorine tablets are just a bit more expensive per pound. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of 1" Chlorine Tablets in 10-pound buckets (for $48.99), 25-pound buckets (for $89.99) and 50-pound buckets (for $139.99). 

Granular Chlorine:
​​While chlorine tablets (primarily 3" tablets) are the most popular type of chlorine, granular chlorine - which is powdered chlorine - is also available. The cost of granular chlorine is more expensive per pound than any chlorine tablets. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of Granular Chlorine in 5-pound bcukets (for $24.99), 25-pound buckets (for $99.99) and 50-pound buckets (for $149.99).

Saltwater Pools:
The end result of a saltwater pool is a pool that is sanitized by chlorine; the salt is converted into chlorine...a saltwater pool is a chlorinated pool. A saltwater pool requires that you have a salt generator (the equipment) installed, plumbed and wired inline with the rest of your pool equipment as well as a sufficient amount of salt in the water. We sell and deliver salt in 40-pound bags for $8.99 per bag.

When you have a saltwater pool, you will also want to maintain the saltwater (in the pool) and the cell (which is th part of the salt generator that converts the salt into chlorine). We sell and deliver a saltwater maintenance kit for $38.99 for this 2-part kit, which is to be used monthly throughout the pool season. The kit is comprised of Part-1 for the saltwater and Part-2 for the cell; both parts are added simultaneously as directed. The kit is based on a 20,000 pool:

Even with this saltwater maintenance kit, you are advised to have the cell professionally cleaned each pool season. If you are using the saltwater maintenance kit as directed, then a professional cleaning once per season will likely suffice most pool seasons. If you are not using this saltwater maintenance kit, then a professional cleaning is likely going to be required two times each pool season. We do offer this service for $129.00 to include the labor and the chemical cleanser; the labor includes removing, cleaning, and re-seating the cell and then putting the salt generator back into service. If you are buying the saltwater maintenance kit from us, then we would agree to professionally clean your cell for just $79.00 (instead of the $129.00 specialty service call rate) whenever the cell needs to be cleaned.

Even with proper saltwater and cell maintenance, the cell will last, on average, 3 (maybe 4 and hopefully 5) pool seasons before it has to be replaced. The better you are at overall saltwater and cell maintenance, the longer the cell will last, but for a large percentage of pool owners, you will have to replace the cell after 3 pool seasons of use. Since there are various manufactures of salt generators, and since each of them offer various models (and model numbers based on the gallons of water in a pool), contact us for a quote to replace the cell.

Nature 2 Mineralizers:
​Nature 2 is a manufacturer pool pool mineralizers, which combines various minerals and trace amounts of chlorine to sanitize the pool water; a mineralizer is not a stand-alone sanitizer...it must be paired with trace amount of chlorine (which will reduce your chlorine use by at least 50%). A mineralizer has a mineral pack, which will have to be replaced at the start of each pool season; the mineral pack will last, on average, 4-6 months. We sell and deliver replacement mineral packs for the Nature 2 Express mineralizer and the Nature 2 Pro-G mineralizer.   

     Replacement Mineral Pack - to be used with the Nature 2 Express Mineralizer:
​     Nature 2 Express Mineral Pack, for pools up to 25,000 gallons only: $119.99

     Replacement Mineral Packs - to be used with the Nature 2 Pro-G Mineralizer:
​     Nature 2 G25 Mineral Pack, for pools between 10,000 - 25,000 gallons: $129.99
​     Nature 2 G35 Mineral Pack, for pools between 25,001 - 35,000 gallons: $139.99
​     Nature 2 G45 Mineral Pack, for pools between 35,001 - 45,000 gallons: $149.99

Note: If you replace your mineral pack at the end of a pool season, you will not be able to use it the next pool season. Once the mineral pack is activated (and exposed to your pool water), the minerals will continue to deplete, regardless if the pool is in use or has been winterized...even if you used your mineral pack for a month, a week, or even a single day last year, it will not be any good this year.

​Note: With any Nature 2 mineralizer, you must still maintain a 0.5 - 1.0 ppm chlorine level, so you will need to buy some chlorine too.

Bromine
​For this reason or that reason, some pool owners simply prefer bromine over chlorine, even though bromine has a much higher cost per pound compared to any form of chlorine. Bromine comes in 1" tablet form. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of Bromine Tablets in 10-pound buckets (for $74.99), 25-pound buckets (for $139.99) and 50-pound buckets (for $239.99).

SANITIZER SUPPLEMENTS:

Cyanuric Acid:
Cyanuric Acid is required when you use chlorine to sanitize your pool water. Chlorine is vulnerable to the sun; in fact, left alone, the sun would render your chlorine virtually if not totally useless. The addition of Cyanuric Acid will protect the chlorine from being dissipated and destroyed by the sun. Any pool that is sanitized by chlorine, regardless of the amount of chlorine, must maintain an adequate Cyanuric Acid level all season. Cyanuric Acid is typically packaged and sold as Stabilizer. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of Stabilizer in 4-pound buckets (for $14.99) and 25-pound buckets (for $59.99). If the Stabilizer level is low (below 30 ppm), then Stabilizer needs to be added. Read the label instructions to determine the amount to add (based on the number of gallons of water in your pool as well as the current Stabilizer level). If the Stabilizer level is high, then the pool needs to be partially drained and re-filled with fresh water (since there is no Cyanuric Acid in water).

Sodium Thiosulfate:
​If the Cyanuric Acid level is within its ideal level and the chlorine level remains uncomfortably high for a few days, if you cannot wait for the chlorine level to gradually drop by itself - if you are having a pool party or for whatever reason a large gathering of swimmers - then Sodium Thiosulfate will expedite the process to lower a chlorine level. We sell and deliver the Applied Biochemists brand of Sodium Thiosulfate in a 20-ounce bottle (for $19.99). Read the label instructions to determine the amount to add (based on the number of gallons of water in your pool as well as the current chlorine level). 

OXIDIZERS: An oxidizer will remove organic matter (such as ammonia, nitrogen, and other organic compounds) from the pool water that your chosen sanitizer could not remove alone. The only way to again free the sanitizer from this organic matter is to oxidize the water. Shocking the pool will oxidize the water; shock is an oxidizer...therefore, when you shock the pool, you are oxidizing the pool water. Shocking the pool will remove all of this organic matter from the pool, which will allow your sanitizer to again work at its peak capacity and efficiency. In its simplest terms, then, when you shock the pool, you are revising your chosen sanitizer. 

Shock​​
There are two types of pool shock: chlorine-based shock and non-chlorine shock.

1.  The chlorine-based shock generates mega-high chlorine levels to ultimately burn-off bacteria, other contaminates, ammonia, nitrogen, and all remaining organic matter in order to oxidize the water (and revive the sanitizer). Calcium Hypochlorite is the most popular type of chlorine-based shock. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of Calcium Hypochlorite chlorine-based shock:

When Calcium Hypochlorite chlorine-based shock has 68% available chlorine or less, then typically 1 pound of shock per 10,000 gallons of water is required FOR REGULAR MAINTENANCE SHOCKING.

When Calcium Hypochlorite chlorine-based shock has at least 73% available chlorine, then typically 1 pound of shock per 15,000 gallons of water is required FOR REGULAR MAINTENANCE SHOCKING.

But, too many times the maintenance amount of shock - the amount that is listed on the packaging - is not enough. A big problem associated with shocking the pool with chlorine-based shock is that too many pool owners do not shock the pool often enough. A bigger problem associated with shocking the pool with chlorine-based shock is that when pool owners do shock the pool, they do not use enough shock...this is simply wasting your money - literally like throwing it away - because if you under-shock, then it is virtually like you did not even shock the pool at all, rendering the shock that you did use totally ineffective and virtually useless. When you shock your pool, you must use the amount of shock required. If you just use 1-pound of shock or even 2-3 pounds of shock, but your pool requires 5 pounds of shock or perhaps more, then whatever shock you added to the pool will do nothing of real value. If you just add an arbitrary amount of shock without knowing how much shock you need to add, then you just wasted the shock that you added and therefore wasted your money. While there are plenty of ways to save money as a pool owner, skimping on shock is certainly not one of them. You must shock the pool regularly AND you must use the correct/required amount of shock each and every time that you shock your pool. 

2.  The non-chlorine shock utilizes active oxygen to convert any bacteria, other contaminates, ammonia, nitrogen, and all remaining organic matter into harmless vapors that are merely released into the atmosphere in order to oxidize the water (and revive the sanitizer). We sell and deliver the Protech brand of non-chlorine shock:

A chlorine-based shock is almost always the best shock option, but it is smart to stock some non-chlorine shock too. One of the major benefits of adding a non-chlorine shock is that you can actually swim within just 15 minutes after its addition to the water, so if you are having a pool party or for whatever reason need to use the pool soon - but the water looks a little hazy and unclear - you can add some non-chlorine shock to help restore water clarity and safely swim within 15 minutes of its addition. And for this application, you can simply use the recommendation on the packaging - which is typically 1 pound of non-chlorine shock per every 10,000 gallons of water - to enhance water clarity without sacrificing time spent in the pool. Every pool owner should have enough non-chlorine shock to shock the pool at least twice when you need to use the pool soon but it really needs to be shocked.

Regardless of the type of shock being used - either chlorine-based (Calcium Hypochlorite) shock or non-chlorine shock - add the shock to a pre-filled bucket of water, stir to dissolve the granules, then dump the shock into the pool in various locations. Note: never add water to dry shock in a bucket; rather, always add the shock to a pre-filled bucket of water.

BALANCERS: The term "balance" or the phrases "water balance" and "balanced water" all refer specifically to the Alkalinity level, the pH level, and the Hardness level all being within their respective ideal ranges. When the pH, Alkalinity, and Hardness levels are all three within their ideal ranges, then the water is said to be balanced. 

Alkalinity Control:
​The Alkalinity level measures the overall amount of alkaline material in that water. For a pool to be balanced, some alkaline material is desired in the water (which will be further explained when pH is discussed).

The Alkalinity and pH are closely related. In fact, Alkalinity can also be characterized as monitoring and adjusting the ability of pool water to resist changes in pH; in other words, the Alkalinity provides protection to (a buffer for) the pH so that the pH level is less likely to change (perhaps drastically change). The Alkalinity level must be in balance; when the Alkalinity level is balanced, it will be much easier to balance the pH level.

When the Alkalinity level is in its ideal range, it acts as a buffer against rampant changes in the pH level. In essence, then, when the Alkalinity level is in its ideal range, an ideal pH level is much easier to attain and maintain.

If the Alkalinity level is low, then it needs to be raised. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of Alkalinity Increaser - called Alkalinity Plus - in 5-pound buckets (for $11.99), 10-pound buckets (for $17.99), and 25-pound buckets (for $32.99). Since a lot of Alkalinity Increaser may be needed, at least initially, we also sell and deliver bulk private label Alkalinity Increaser in 50-pound bags (for $49.99); while this is mainly used by maintenance and service crews that chemically-treat multiple pools on their routes, it is available to you too at a price-point if you need to raise the Alkalinity by a lot.

If the Alkalinity level is high, then it needs to be lowered. NOTE: If the Alkalinity level is high, pH Decreaser is used to lower the Alkalinity level. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of pH Decreaser - called pH Minus - in 6-pound buckets (for $17.99) and 30-pound buckets (for $49.99).

Regardless if you have to raise or lower the Alkalinity level, read the label instructions to determine the amount to add (based on the number of gallons of water in your pool and the current Alkalinity level). 

pH Control:
​The pH level is very crucial in pool water. The pH level measures how acidic, balanced, or alkaline the pool water is at any given time. These categories of water (acidic, balanced, and alkaline) are from the pH Scale. Although it is not important for you to understand the history, science and chemistry of the actual pH Scale, it is important to determine whether the pH level in your pool is acidic, balanced, or alkaline.

Acidic water is water that is LOW in pH; acidic water will lead to dissolving and corrosion of any metallic components, parts and pieces of your pool, which can discolor the water and perhaps stain the pool surface; or worse, if water is left to be acidic over a sustained period of time, the acidic water can - will - damage your pool structure, waterproofing, plumbing and equipment...some of it or all of it. Do not rely on the appearance of the water...a pool can be absolutely crystal-clear when the pH level is low, even very low. So, although the water looks just fine, the acidic nature of the water is doing damage to your pool structure, waterproofing, plumbing and/or equipment.

Alkaline water is water that is HIGH in pH; alkaline water will lead to milky white cloudy water and perhaps scale formation on your pool surface; or worse, if the water is left to be alkaline over a sustained period of time, the alkaline water can cause additional scale to build-up inside your plumbing (pipes) and the equipment, which will restrict circulation to and through the plumbing and equipment...this will affect water clarity; and, since water flow is restricted, this will deter the chemicals from being optimally distributed into the pool, which will affect water chemistry...which will further affect water clarity.

Balanced water is water that is within the ideal pH level/range.

The actual pH Scale ranges from 0.0 – 14.0, with a reading of 7.0 being balanced. The actual scientific pH Scale looks like this:

Although this 7.0 reading is considered balanced and therefore ideal for everyday usage water, such as drinking water, it is not ideal for pool water. The ideal pH range for pool water is between 7.2 – 7.8, which is slightly alkaline according to the actual pH Scale. For pool water, some alkaline content is desired (and that is why the Alkalinity level is also important to pools). Therefore, to be accurate for your pool, the pH Scale has been slightly revised:

Water chemists universally agree that pH is not only the most important chemical of the three water balancers (which are pH, Alkalinity, and Hardness), but it is also the most important chemical overall. The main reason for this claim is because (a) the pH level is simply very important and (b) everything else can be - and likely will be - affected when the pH is not balanced. As one very important example, when your pH level is not within its ideal range, your chosen sanitizer is literally going to be about 80% less effective. To put it another way, if the pH level is not within its ideal range, you are wasting $8.00 of every $10.00 spent on your chosen sanitizer.

If the pH level is low, then it needs to be raised. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of pH Increaser - called pH Plus - in 5-pound buckets (for $11.99), 10-pound buckets (for $17.99), and 25-pound buckets (for $32.99).

If the pH level is high, then it needs to be lowered. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of pH Decreaser - called pH Minus - in 6-pound buckets (for $17.99) and in 30-pound buckets (for $49.99).

Regardless if you have to raise or lower the pH level, read the label instructions to determine the amount to add (based on the number of gallons of water in your pool and the current pH level). 

Hardness Control:
The Hardness level is a measurement of the amount of certain minerals that are present in your pool water...in other words, the amount of minerals in the water will determine the overall "hardness" level of that water. All pool water needs a certain amount of "hardness" (or mineral content) to be balanced. Calcium is, by far, the main mineral, as it alone can comprise up to 75% - and in certain cases as high as 95% - of the overall Hardness level. Your pool needs a certain amount of calcium for it to be balanced. For this reason, the Hardness level is often referred to as the Calcium Hardness level. While calcium clearly comprises the absolute majority of minerals in the water, there are other minerals in your pool water. Why, then, is calcium isolated? Because calcium, much more so than any other mineral found in water, has the potential to cause problems in pool when either too little or too much calcium is in the pool water:

While a certain amount of calcium is required in the water to achieve balance, too little or too much calcium can cause problems and for this reason the Hardness (or Calcium Hardness) level is important. This synopsis about the Hardness level literally mirrors that of the pH level. So why is the Hardness level so rarely referenced while the pH level is being discussed and explained constantly? Because the ideal range for the Hardness level is very broad and the clearly majority of water supplies (whether that be municipal water or well water) have a Hardness level that is within this - broad - ideal range. Conversely, the pH level can change on you - for the worse - without notice. That said, this is not an invitation to neglect the Hardness level; rather, it's a warning to keep a very watchful eye on the pH level...while still keeping an eye on the Hardness level.

If the Hardness level is low, then it needs to be raised. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of Hardness Increaser - called Hardness Plus - in 8-pound buckets (for $19.99) and 25-pound buckets (for $42.99). Read the label instructions to determine the amount to add (based on the number of gallons of water in your pool and the current Hardness level). 

If the Hardness level is high, there is no chemical to lower the Hardness level; if the Hardness level is high, the pool needs to be partially drained and re-filled with water that has a balanced Hardness level.

ANCILLARY CHEMICALS​: The phrase 'ancillary chemicals' simply refers to the additional chemicals (other than your chosen sanitizer, shock, and the various water balancers) that you will also use to:

Once the pool water is sanitized, oxidized, and balanced, the use of various maintenance chemicals will assist these chemicals as well as assist your pool filter with maintaining clean, clear, and safe water for swimming. We recommend - because the national swimming pool industry and its water chemists recommend - that the following maintenance chemicals be used as part of your overall pool maintenance schedule:

At times, though, even the most tenured pool owner who is diligent with chemical testing, chemical adjustments, and regular pool maintenance will encounter water clarity problems. Relax...you can use various treatment chemicals that will help remedy any problems that arise with water clarity...and they will arise, regardless of your experience and expertise as a pool owner.

NOTE: for liquid chemicals, a quart contains 32 fluid ounces and a liter contains 33.9 fluid ounces.

We sell and deliver the following ancillary chemicals:

Phosphate Removal:
Phosphates are the initial nutrients and food source that can foster an outbreak of algae in your pool. Phosphates can enter your pool water merely by passing through water treatment plants to end up in the source water used to fill your pool. Phosphates can also be introduced to a pool from outside influences, such as leaves, grass clippings, and dirt that find their way into a pool. Phosphates are found in lawn fertilizers. Phosphates are found in detergents (used to wash your bathing suits and towels) as well as the soaps and shampoos you use to bathe. Phosphates can also be found in human perspiration and urine. Phosphates are even an inert ingredient of certain pool chemicals. Regardless of how Phosphates enter your pool, once there, they can provide the food and nourishment – and therefore the potential – for algae. There are chemicals, however, that will reduce the amount of Phosphates in your pool water. There is no ideal level/range for the amount of Phosphates in the pool water, but a reading under 100 parts per billion (ppb) is desired in order to starve the potential for algae blooms; if the Phosphate level in your pool is at 100 ppb or higher, then add a Phosphate Remover. We sell and deliver the Natural Chemistry brand of Phosphate Remover - called PhosFree - in 2-liter bottles (for $28.99) and 3-liter bottles (for $36.99). Read the label instructions to determine the amount to add (based on the number of gallons of water in your pool and the current level of phosphates in the water). 

Algae Prevention:
​An Algistat is a derivative of an Algaecide that is used to help prevent algae; it will not eliminate actual algae, but it will help prevent algae. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of Algistat - Called Algaecide-50 - in quart-sized bottles (for $17.99). We recommend that you add just 2 ounces of Algaecide-50 per 10,000 gallons of water weekly as a maintenance dose to help prevent any outbreaks of algae. Of course, in addition to the maintenance dose of Algaecide-50, you still also have to keep your pool water sanitized, you still have to shock the pool, you still have to keep your pool water balanced, you have to test the Phosphate level (and eliminate the amount of phosphates in the water if the level is above 100 ppb), you have to make sure the pool circulates and filters adequately, and you will also have to engage in regular pool maintenance; all of this will help prevent algae. It is much easier, much less expensive, and much less time-consuming to prevent algae than it is to destroy and remove algae.

Green Algae Removal:
An Algaecide is used to help eliminate actual algae; the Algaecide alone will not eliminate algae, but it is required. You will also have to increase your sanitizer level as well as shock the pool in high and perhaps multiple and continued doses. In addition to the chemical requirements, you will also have to engage in additional and therefore time-consuming pool maintenance to eliminate the algae. And, for those of you that do not typically operate your pump 24/7 throughout the season, you will if you have algae. Algae is a real problem; do not think for even a moment that merely adding Algaecide to the pool water will eliminate the algae.

Polymeric Algaecides are typically used to help eliminate green algae. Polymeric Algaecides contain a positive electrical charge that is attracted to the negative electrical charge of algae. Do not worry about the science and chemistry of a Polymeric Algaecide. Rather, just understand that the Algaecide will attach to the green algae, penetrate inward, and smother its ability to live and spread. If you have green algae, seek a Polymeric Algaecide to help eliminate the algae. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of Polymeric Algaecide - called Algaecide-60 - in quart-sized bottles (for $22.99). Read the label instructions to determine the amount to add (based on the number of gallons of water in your pool). 

While Algaecide-60 is a great Algaecide, it is reiterated that this Algaecide-60 alone will not and cannot eliminate green algae. Any Algaecide will rely on an increased sanitizer level, an abundance of shock, additional pool maintenance, and a lot of your time and patience; and for those of you that do not typically operate your pump 24/7 throughout the season, you will if you have algae. Too many pool owners have added an Algaecide and walked away only to see the algae worsen. An Algaecide alone will never work...but it is certainly required.

Mustard (Yellow) Algae Removal:
​An Algaecide is used to help eliminate actual algae; the Algaecide alone will not eliminate the algae, but it is required. You will also have to increase your sanitizer level as well as shock the pool in high and perhaps multiple and continued doses. In addition to the chemical requirements, you will also have to engage in additional and therefore time-consuming pool maintenance to eliminate the algae. And, for those of you that do not typically operate your pump 24/7 throughout the season, you will if you have algae. Algae is a real problem; do not think for even a moment that merely adding Algaecide to the pool water will eliminate the algae. Any algae is a real problem...mustard (yellow) algae is the most problematic form (color) of algae.

Metallic Algaecides are typically used to help eliminate the very harsh mustard (yellow) algae. Metallic Algaecides contain copper, which is the only element strong enough to attach to the mustard (yellow) algae, penetrate inward, and smother its ability to live and spread. If you have mustard (yellow) algae, seek a Metallic Algaecide to help eliminate the algae. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of Metallic Algaecide - called Copper Algaecide - in quart-sized bottles (for $22.99). Read the label instructions to determine the amount to add (based on the number of gallons of water in your pool). . 

While Copper Algaecide is a great Algaecide, it is reiterated that this Copper Algaecide alone will not and cannot eliminate mustard (yellow) algae. Any Algaecide will rely on an increased sanitizer level, an abundance of shock, additional pool maintenance, and a lot of your time and patience; and for those of you that do not typically operate your pump 24/7 throughout the season, you will if you have algae. Too many pool owners have added an Algaecide and walked away only to see the algae worsen. An Algaecide alone will never work...but it is certainly required.

For mustard (yellow) algae, although copper is superior at eliminating the algae, it is a very corrosive metal that is not desired in your pool water long-term. The presence of copper, if left in the pool water too long, may dissolve and corrode certain materials, components, parts and pieces of your pool and/or its equipment, which may lead to discoloration of the water; if the discolored water is left untreated, this may stain your pool surface, or worse, this may damage your pool structure, waterproofing, plumbing, and/or equipment. When a copper-based Algaecide is used, the copper must be treated...you must also add a Sequesterant to the pool water within a pre-determined timeframe after adding the copper-based Algaecide in order to protect yourself against the undesired long-term effects of the copper. If you have an outbreak of mustard (yellow) algae, seek an Algaecide that contains copper to help eliminate the algae and then seek a Sequesterant to rid the water of the copper once the copper has eliminated the mustard (yellow) algae.

NOTE: Do not use a copper-based Algaecide if you use any type of mineralizer, such as any Nature 2 mineralizer, to (co) sanitize your pool water. If you use a mineralizer and have an outbreak of mustard (yellow) algae, call us to discuss a specially-formulated chlorine-enhanced granular Algaecide that contains sodium bromide; the sodium bromide would replace the copper as the element to help eliminate the mustard (yellow) algae.

After Algae Treatment:
Once the algae is removed, microscopic dead algae remnants will remain suspended in the water. We recommend adding Natural Chemistry Pool First Aid once the algae is no longer visible. We sell and deliver Natural Chemistry First Aid in 2-liter bottles (for $24.99). NOTE: By adding 2 ounces per every 1,000 gallons of water, a 2-liter bottle will treat a 33,000 gallon pool after the algae treatment. Additionally, if the outbreak of algae was severe and widespread, once the algae is clearly gone and the First Aid has had time to rid the water of any dead algae remnants, then add a filter cleaner to ensure there are no dead algae remnants trapped in the filter media. We sell and deliver the Natural Chemistry brand of filter cleaner - called Filter Perfect - in 1-liter bottles (for $19.99). This filter cleaner works for any type of filter. Use the entire 1-liter bottle as directed, based on your filter type.

Cloudy Water:
A Clarifier can help prevent cloudy water. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of Clarifier - called Super Clarifier - in quart-sized bottles (for $17.99). We recommend that you add just 2 ounces of Clarifier per 10,000 gallons of water every other week as a maintenance dose to help prevent cloudy water.

If your water does get cloudy, this same Clarifier will also help restore water clarity. But, do not just add Clarifier...if the water is cloudy, first look into these possible causes:

If everything else is good, then the likely cause of the cloudy water is the presence of millions of microscopic particles that are just too small to be trapped by the filter for permanent removal, so they remain suspended in the water...these millions of particles elicit a cloudy appearance to the pool water. If this is the case, then add some Clarifier. A Clarifier is not a magical chemical that just magically clarifies your water. Rather, a Clarifier is a coagulant that bonds microscopic small particles into larger particles. Scientifically, the positive polymers within the Clarifier will quickly bond to the negative particles, dirt, debris, and other micro contaminates; with this bond, all of the once-too-small particles, dirt, debris, and other micro contaminates clump together...when clumped, they get to a micron size that is capable of being removed by your filter. The Clarifier, then, does not really clarify the water. The real act of clarifying is accomplished by the filter as it is now able to trap and remove these (once microscopic, now bonded and therefore larger) particles. If millions of microscopic particles are the reason for th cloudy water, then add some Clarifier. Read the label instructions to determine the amount to add (based on the number of gallons of water in your pool). NOTE: when you purchase a generic Clarifier for your pool, you are purchasing a coagulant-based clarifier; to coagulate means to bond.

If the microscopic particles in your pool water are too small AND too numerous, then a coagulant-based Clarifier is no match for these millions upon millions of ultra-microscopic particles. If this is the case, then a flocculent-based Clarifier, also called a flocculent, will be required. We sell and deliver the Protech brand of flocculent - Called Super Floc-Out - in quart-sized bottles (for $19.99). The use of flocculent will also require an accompanying maintenance schedule - primarily vacuuming - to help restore water clarity. Read the label instructions to determine the amount to add (based on the number of gallons of water in your pool) as well as the recommended sequential maintenance procedure. NOTE: do not use a flocculent in a pool that is equipped with a DE filter; a flocculent is made from aluminum sulfate (also called Alum), which will solidify/calcify the DE powder inside the filter, which will lead to poor (almost zero) filtration and ultimately necessitate cleaning - or perhaps even replacing - the grids (or cartridges)...don't use a flocculent is your pool is equipped with a DE filter.

Enzyme Cleaner:
Products such as sunscreens, tanning lotion, underarm deodorants, hair care products, hand lotions, body lotions, various women’s make-up, and other cosmetic products can cause a waterline, which is a build-up of solid materials at the surface (waterline) of the pool. Outside influences, such as dirt and debris that find their way in the pool, will also contribute to the waterline build-up. Even swimmer wastes, such as perspiration, urine, saliva and body oils will contribute to the waterline build-up. The formation of a waterline can occur even if your pool water is continually circulating and filtering, your water is in balance, your sanitizer levels are sufficient, you shock the pool regularly, and you perform regular pool maintenance. While you can brush the pool walls at the surface to remove waterline build-up, this will only suspend the once solid materials that comprised the waterline in the water where they will further exhaust your sanitizer - and shock - as well as clog your filter. And, these materials will inevitably re-form as a waterline.

An effective way to prevent a waterline is to use an enzyme-based chemical. We sell and deliver the Natural Chemistry brand of Enzyme Cleaner - called Pool Perfect - in the following sizes and prices:

We recommend that you add just 4 ounces (one capful) of Pool Perfect per 8,000 gallons of water every other week as a maintenance dose to help help prevent a waterline build-up; this will also help your sanitizer work more effectively and efficiently as well as put less strain on your filter media.

If a waterline should still occur, the same Enzymes will completely remove the waterline build-up by breaking down any of the solid matter that comprise the waterline into their simplest form...liquid. Read the label instructions to determine the amount to add (based on the number of gallons of water in your pool). 

Sequesterant:
​The presence of metals and minerals in pool water can be problematic:

Due to the presence of metals and minerals in the water, we recommend that you add a Sequesterant weekly as a maintenance dose to help prevent discolored water and stains (due to the presence of metals in the water) or milky white water and scale (due to the presence of minerals in the water). We sell and deliver the Protect brand of Sequesterant - called Metal Out Plus - in quart-sized bottles (for $17.99). Based on the metals and/or minerals in the source water that was used to fill your pool, these are our maintenance-based recommendations:

For those of you using municipally-treated water in your pool, the recommendation of 2 ounces per 10,000 gallons of water is likely sufficient. For those of you on well water, a higher amount will likely be required...this amount will depend on the amount of metals and/or minerals in the well water; be aware that well water can change from year to year...so, well water with no metal or mineral content this year may have measurable (and perhaps high) metal and/or mineral content next year. Regardless of the region where you live and the source water used to fill your pool, a Sequesterant should be added weekly as part of your overall pool maintenance schedule.

If unsequestered, if the presence of metals leads to discolored water or if the presence of minerals leads to milky white water, at this stage, a Sequesterant will work to restore the water clarity. Read the label instructions to determine the amount to add (based on the number of gallons of water in your pool and based on the condition/appearance of the water). Perhaps this will help:

If initial water clarity is distorted due to the presence of metals or minerals in the water, this needs to be rectified now, using a Sequesterant. If neglected, real problems will occur:

Really, (metal) stains and scale should not be a problem...you should have used a Sequesterant prior to stains (due to metals) or scale (due to minerals) occurring.

NOTE: if you have metals in the water - typically iron or copper - these metals will discolor the water (it will be brownish [or yellow/brown] if iron is present and it will be greenish [or blue/green] if copper is present). Many pool owners mistake this for algae (they mistake the brownish [or yellow/brown] discoloration/tint of the water for mustard algae and they mistake the greenish [or blue/green] discoloration/tint of the water for green algae). Thinking they have algae, they shock the pool. No. Shock is an oxidizer. When shock is added to water with high metal content, the shock will oxidize with the metal in the water and accelerate/worsen the discoloration. If metals are in the water, they need to be sequestered...with a Sequesterant.

FYI - There is a lot of confusion about (a) the Hardness level, (b) hard water, (c) the amount of minerals in the water and (d) the amount of metals in the water. The Hardness level is one of the three water balancers (with pH and Alkalinity being the other two). When hard water is referenced, this is water that is high in minerals (primarily Calcium); so, hard water is related to the Hardness level of the water. Water that has high levels of metals in the water (such as iron and copper) is not hard water; rather, it is simply water that is high in metal content (again, with iron and copper being the main metals). To be clear, hard water and water that is high in metal content are not the same...but they are both problematic and need to be remedied. Just remember that hard water deals with minerals in the water, not metals.

Stain Removal:
​There are two types of stains that are found in pools:

A vegetative (plant-based) stain is staining that is caused either by the tannins that are released from decayed leaves or by dead algae remnants. If you remove leaves and dead algae from the pool, then vegetative stains will not be a concern.

A metallic stain is staining that is caused by excessive amounts of metals in the water. If excessive amounts of metals are in the water, the water will initially discolor:

Here, a Sequesterant will rid the pool of the discoloration to restore water clarity. But, if the discoloration is neglected, the metals will then come out of solution and deposit themselves on the pool surface in the form of a stain. If you add a Sequesterant as part of your regular pool maintenance schedule, then metallic stains will likely not be a concern. Even if your pool water does discolor due to the presence of metals in the water, if you add a Sequesterant to rid the water of its discoloration to restore water clarity, then metallic stains will likely not be a concern. But if you neglect any of this, then metallic staining is likely:

Regardless of the severity of the staining and the type of stain remover used, read the label instructions to determine the amount to add (based on the number of gallons of water in your pool). 

Filter Cleaner:
​​After a severe and widespread outbreak of algae, once the algae is clearly gone and the water has been treated post-algae, then add a filter cleaner to ensure there are no dead algae remnants trapped in the filter media. Also, regardless of the condition of the water, add a filter cleaner every other year to help clean the media inside the filter. We sell and deliver the Natural Chemistry brand of filter cleaner - called Filter Perfect - in 1-liter bottles (for $19.99). This filter cleaner works for any type of filter. Use the entire 1-liter bottle as directed, based on your filter type.

POOL OPENING CHEMICALS: These are merely the pool chemicals you will use when opening and starting-up your pool. The only difference in the kits is the amount of shock used (which is based on gallons of water in your pool). All of the chemicals in the kit should be added when opening the pool, not just shock. Once the pool is open and the equipment is started, add sanitizer immediately. And, be prepared to use a lot of shock during these first 4-10 days (or however long it takes) to get your pool water clean, clear, and safe for swimming this pool season.

POOL CLOSING CHEMICALS: These are merely the pool chemicals you will use prior to closing and winterizing your pool. The only difference in the kits is the amount of shock used (which is based on the gallons of water in your pool). All of the chemicals in the kit should be added prior to closing the pool, not just shock. Also make sure that your chosen sanitizer and all of the water balancers (Alkalinity, pH, and Hardness) are all within their ideal levels prior to closing and winterizing the pool; this will make it easier to re-gain water clarity next pool season

CHEMICAL TESTERS:

TEST STRIPS:

Chlorine Test Strips:
If you use chlorine to sanitize your pool, and if you are set on using test strips to test your chemicals, then at least opt for the enhanced chlorine test strips, as they do differentiate between Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine.

​​Salt Test Strips:
​The salt test strips will test the salt level in your saltwater pool. You can compare this level with the diagnostic read-out on your salt generator. We sell and deliver a bottle of 10 test strips (for $9.99). You will also have to test the chlorine level too (since the salt is converted into chlorine).

Bromine Test Strips:
The basic bromine test strips will test the Bromine, Alkalinity, pH, and Hardness levels. We sell and deliver a bottle of 50 test strips (for $9.99).

Phosphate Test Strips:
Phosphates are a nutrient and food source for algae. To be safe, the Phosphate level should be 100 ppb (or lower) to starve the potential for algae. We sell and deliver a bottle of 10 Phosphate test strips with the test vial (for $16.99).

TEST KITS:

Taylor K-2005 Test Kit:
​The K-2005 test kit is a very good residential test kit. For many reasons, a test kit is always recommended instead of test strips; the main reason is that a good test kit (like the K-2005 test kit) will test your current sanitizer levels and variables to ultimately determine when you need to shock the pool AND how much shock to use. We sell and deliver the K-2005 complete test kit (for $79.99). We also sell and deliver any of the replacement reagents.

Taylor K-2006 Test Kit
​The K-2006 test kit is a great residential test kit. The only difference between the K-2006 test kit and the K-2005 test kit (other than the $10.00 price increase) is that the K-2006 uses different reagents to test the sanitizer level more accurate and precise (which is well worth the $10.00). For many reasons, a test kit is always recommended instead of test strips; the main reason is that a good test kit (like the K-2006 test kit, which really is the recommended test kit) will test your current sanitizer levels and variables to ultimately determine when you need to shock the pool AND how much shock to use. We sell and deliver the K-2006 complete test kit (for $89.99). We also sell and deliver any of the replacement powder and reagents.

MAINTENANCE EQUIPMENT:

Telepoles:
​A telepole is a long aluminum pole that can extend to various lengths in order to complete its intended maintenance procedure at any area and at any depth of the pool. The telepole attaches to your brush, various nets, leaf vacuum, manual vacuum assembly, and other maintenance equipment in order to perform a maintenance task. We sell and deliver a standard 8' - 15' telepole (for $39.99) and a heavy duty 8' - 16' telepole (for $59.99).​

Brush:
The brush is used to brush away dirt and debris, as well as algae, from the pool floor, walls, and step (if applicable). The brush connects to any telepole. We sell and deliver an 18" brush with polypropylene bristles (for $17.99).

Skimmer Nets:
The skimmer net, which has a flat and shallow net, is primarily used to remove leaves, grass clippings, debris, or insects that float on the surface of the water. The skimmer net connects to any telepole. We sell and deliver a standard skimmer net (for $14.99) and a heavy duty skimmer net (for $19.99).

Deep Nets:
The deep net - which is often called a leaf rake or leaf net - has a wide opening and a deep net, which is primarily used to reach leaves or other large debris that have settled to the pool floor. The deep net connects to any telepole. We sell and deliver a standard deep net (for $24.99), a heavy duty deep net (for $29.99) and a super heavy duty leaf net (for $36.99).

Venturi-Activated Leaf Vacuum:
The leaf vacuum connects to any telepole and a garden hose. The leaf vacuum is a venturi-based vacuum that use water pressure from a garden hose to create enough pressure to push the leaves into the unit and its self-contained leaf catching bag. We sell and deliver the leaf vacuum (for $48.99). We also sell and deliver the standard replacement leaf bag (for $9.99) and the high capacity replacement leaf bag (for $19.99).

Brush-Style Vacuums:
The brush-style vacuum is for vinyl-liner pools and fiberglass pools. The brush style-vacuum connects to any telepole and the vacuum hose. We sell and deliver the standard brush-style vacuum (for $36.99) and the heavy duty brush-style vacuum (for $59.99).

Wheel-Style Vacuums:
​The wheel-style vacuum is for concrete pool and hybrid pools. The wheel-style-vacuum connects to any telepole and the vacuum hose. We sell and deliver the 12" heavy duty wheel-style vacuum (for $49.99), the 14" super heavy duty wheel-style vacuum (for $82.99), and the 22" super heavy duty wheel-style vacuum (for $99.99).

Vacuum Hoses:
The vacuum hose connects to the vacuum and the skimmer (or a dedicated suction/vacuum line, if your pool is equipped with a suction/vacuum line). You must make sure that the vacuum hose is long enough to vacuum the entire pool from the same skimmer (or suction/vacuum line). We sell and deliver a 1.5" x 30' long vacuum hose (for $39.99), a 1.5" x 40' long vacuum hose (for $49.99), and a 1.5" x 50' long vacuum hose (for $59.99).

Thermometers:
​A thermometer displays the (close) temperature of the pool water. We sell and deliver a tube-style thermometer with a 3' cord (for $11.99) and a floating thermometer with no cord (also for $11.99).

ADDITIONAL POOL SUPPLIES:
If you need any other pool supplies, chemicals, equipment, parts, accessories, or any other pool-related products delivered that are not listed on this web-page, then contact Expert Pool Work, Inc. at 402-341-8132 or info@expertpoolwork.com to inquire about pricing and availability.

 

 

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